Wella Illuminage: how to perfect premium blonde balayage with Wella Illumina

As the seasons change, there’s nothing we look forward to more than the re-emergence of the dreamiest blonde hair colours. We’re talking warm golden tones and natural sun-kissed blondes evocative of those just-back-from-vacay beachy locks. With Wella Illumina, every client can live their best blonde fantasy. The multi-tonal hair colour with ultra-reflective sheer results lends itself perfectly to blonde balayage! Read ahead to find out how to balayage hair to summer blonde perfection!

What is Balayage?

The most favoured colouring service of clients these days, balayage offers multi-dimensional colour that celebrates lightness while allowing clients to stay true to their roots. Balayage hair is a freehand colouring technique that uses a sweeping motion to stroke lightener through the hair wherever a little extra lightness is needed. Ideal for bespoke salon hair colouring services, balayage achieves soft, natural-looking results with no harsh lines. Plus, it’s super easy for clients to maintain as it focuses primarily on mid-lengths and ends – an absolute win-win!

What is Illuminage?

There are two key differences between traditional balayage and Illuminage. The first is all about placement. As we’ve discussed, classic balayage emphasises mid-lengths and ends, whereas Wella Illuminage focuses more on face-framing. By contouring and accentuating sections around the face and gradually lightening the ends, this balayage blonde hair technique creates a softer, luminous, lit-from-within effect.

The second major difference is all in the hair products. As you might have guessed (the clue is in the name), Illuminage relies on the use of Illumina Wella hair colour to get that super-reflective finish. By using Illumina color, this specific balayage technique enhances the natural highs and lows of the hair to really emphasise those face-contouring highlights. When the light hits a clients’ Illuminage just right, the results are truly mesmerising!

Illuminage has evolved over the last couple of years to become part of Wella Professionals‘ Signature Blondes collection. Derived from a belief that hair colour – and blondes in particular – should be unique to each client’s specific style, Signature Blondes are all about flaunting your flair for blonding services that complement each and every client. With that in mind, let’s take a look at some of best blonde Wella balayage techniques using Wella Illumina color.

How-to Classic Illuminage

The original Illuminage technique, this Wella balayage tutorial is all about achieving ultra-natural effects with delicate, multi-tonal accents. We’re talking seamless transition between highs and lows with radiant sheer results.

Step 1: Lightening

Mix two lightening formulas: 30g Blondor Freelights + 45g Welloxon 9% developer + 2ml WellaPlex No. 1 and 30g Illumina Color 8/93 + 20g 9/19 + 40g 9% developer.

Taking large zig-zag sections, gently backcomb the peaks of the zig-zag and feather the Illumina hair colour formula close to the root area, lengths and ends. Isolate with clear sheets, then take the valleys of the zig-zag and sweep the Freelights mix from mid-lengths to ends before isolating with clear sheets.

Step 2: Root Shadowing

Starting at the nape of the neck, apply a root shadow mix onto damp hair just away from the neck. Bring it down by approximately 7cm to the mid area while root tapping through the front and hairline.

Step 3: Blonde Toning

Create two blonde Illumina formulas – one lighter and one darker to achieve a multi-tonal finish. Separate the perimeter from the diamond section at the crown and apply the second, lighter formula from mid-lengths to ends through the perimeter section to create a face-framing glow. Through the diamond section, sweep the first, darker mix through the mid-lengths before returning to the lighter shade to enhance the ends.

How-to Brazilian Illuminage

Perfect for creating clarity and boosting brightness, the Brazilian Illumina balayage technique accentuates contrast to the face frame and lengths for an enhanced lightness in all the right places!

Step 1: Lightening

Mix together 60g of BlondorPlex + 90g 6% developer and begin painting it through the hair. Accentuate contrast with back-to-back large weaves and zig-zag panels, taking care to backcomb triangle sections for diffused roots. Work through the fringe with slices to create the face frame. Add another triangle on each side to give your client an extra boost of brightness.

Step 2: Root Shadowing

After rinsing the developed hair lightener, add a root shadow using Illumina Color, working in horizontal sections and finishing at the front hairline. Through the crown, sweep down to the mid-lengths for added contrast while keeping shadow minimal on the face frame.

Step 3: Blonde Toning

Tone the hair with a light, bright shade of Illumina on a level 9 or 10. Apply the colour to mid-lengths, ends and face frame to complete the Brazilian Illuminage look.

How-to Ultra Illuminage

Try this balayage technique for clients who seek a bright blonde with light-reflecting highlights. As close to an all-over blonde as Wella balayage gets, the Ultra-Illuminage technique seamlessly blends warm blonde tones for a bold and beachy vibe.

Step 1: Lightening

Mix 30g BlondorPlex + 45g 4% Welloxon developer. Apply in delicate waves around the hairline, then create zig-zags and weaves through the rest of the hair, making sure to sweep the lightener just slightly away from the roots.

Step 2: Root Shadowing

Once the lightener has developed, rinse thoroughly and apply WellaPlex No.2 Bond Stabiliser and leave for 10 minutes before cleansing with shampoo and roughly drying the hair. Using a root shade anywhere between a mid-brown and a dark blonde colour, divide the hair – leaving the hairline out – and tap the colour at the roots. Leave for five minutes.

Step 3: Blonde Toning

At the basin, apply a light, bright Illumina toner to the lengths, ends and hairline. Allow to develop for up to 15 minutes for a radiant blonde hair colour.

The Perfect Finish

To make the most of whichever Wella Illuminage technique you use, finish the process with the very best in colour hair care. After blonde toning, Wella recommend lightly cleansing with Wella ColorMotion+ Shampoo and finishing with the ColorMotion+ Post Color Treatment. The ultimate combination of protection and strenth, this final step provides the best in colour protection thanks to integrated WellaPlex bonding agents that strengthen the hair and prolong colour vibrancy.

So now you know how to do balayage using Wella’s unique Illuminage technique, it’s time to get practicing and show off your best blonde creations! Leave us a comment with your favourite colours or share your eye-catching looks with us on Instagram – we’d love to see what you can do!